Thursday, June 30, 2011
A little taste of home (kind of)
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Beware the Red Menace
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
Silly Americans and the chicken confusion
Monday, June 27, 2011
Skal! -- Drinking in Norway
- In Norway, the times are more restrictive about when you can buy alcohol at the store. Specifically, you can buy your "hooch" Monday - Friday: Before 8 p.m. / Saturday: Before 3 p.m. / Sunday: not at all.
- Norway has a zero-tolerance policy about drinking and driving. In the states, the legal limit varies, say from 0.08% to 0.10% or so, but in Norway it's practically zip, zero, nada. If you are out at dinner, for example, and you have a glass of wine with your meal — it is clearly understood that you are not driving at all for the rest of that night. And, the police do not need probable cause to check drivers as they do in some places in the states. So, they can set up a checkpoint and run a breathalizer on every driver. One Norwegian told me that if you "test positive" for alcohol, you can expect to lose your license for at least two years and to spend 30 days in jail. And the culture seems to agree with this. It would be a social taboo of the first order to say, "I only had one glass of wine with dinner, I'm OK to drive."
- To my best understanding, there aren't open container laws in Norway. The designated driver can have nary a drop anyway and the penalties are severe if they do. So, the designated passengers are free to pop open a cold one while they enjoy the scenery.
- The only alcohol you can buy in grocery and convenience stores is beer that has no more than 4.5% alcohol. If you want stronger beer, liquor, or wine, you must go to one of the state-owned and sanctioned liquor stores. There are two of these stores in Bodø, each about a 20-25 minute walk from my dorms.
Monday, June 20, 2011
Touring the City Center
Friday was a day for rolling up my sleeves and going to work. The people with the good stories weren’t going to find themselves, so it was time to go on the hunt. I didn’t go to campus on Friday and instead walked into the city center in search of leads and contacts. One of the best parts is that I had a partner in crime. My new buddy, Leah LeFebvre, and I have research topics that are complimentary and we teamed up to hit the big city together. Here is a breakdown of the highlights of our adventure:
Tourist Information Center
This seems like the most logical starting point. I had been here previously when I was first getting oriented to my summer home. I had met a young woman, Kristina, working behind the counter. I told her about my research interests and she said that she thought I might be interested in talking to her father (See The Research Fellowship entry for more details). As soon as Leah and I started chatting with the young man behind the counter, Kristina popped out from the back room, having heard my voice. After a round of smiles, waves and “heys”, she told me that her father had said that he would love to talk to me and that she would send me an e-mail with details soon. After we peppered the guy behind the counter with a multitude of questions, we headed out to see the city.
Bodø Cathedral
Leah and I had talked about going to church services on Sundays in Bodø as a way to get to know the community, meet locals, and find possible interviewees. One of the most notable churches in the City Center is the Bodø Cathedral. The internet tells me that, “The Bodø cathedral was completed in 1956. A 12 metre stained glass window, 10 tapestries from Nordland, and a rose window decorate the beautiful interior. The cathedral is built as a basilica in the Gothic style. It was one of the first churches in Norway to have a detached steeple”. We arrived a few minutes before it was officially open, so we sat for a few minutes next to a memorial for the Norwegian military members lost in World War II.
Once it was time, we wandered inside hoping to find a church office with folks we could talk to. The sanctuary, in particular, was beautiful to walk through and see, but ultimately unstaffed. We were able to confirm that Sunday services started at 11 a.m and we decided that we would come back on the weekend.
Public Library
When looking for information, it only makes sense to go to the public library, or in this case the Bodø Bibliotek as it is more formally known. Located just down the street from the Cathedral, the library is a small 2-story building. The first thing we noticed as we walked in was a large blueprint of the planned new library, which will be built in 2014. Inside, the first floor was the children’s section. I was amused to see a sign next to the computers in this area that they are only for use by people who are 15 years old or younger. I like that the adults just need to keep on moving upstairs if they want to use a computer. After hovering for a bit and taking it in, we introduced ourselves and explained our interests to a woman who struck me as having a head-librarian-ish stature. She gave Leah a couple good leads, but my topic seemed to stump her. The one thing she did suggest was that I check out the local newspaper office. And so we were off…
Newspaper Office
Half a block down on the other side of street in the green building is the offices of the local newspaper. We showed up, but the offices were dark and no one appeared to be there. D’oh! We decided that the newspaper offices will need to wait until another day and, in the meantime, perhaps we can do a little poking around and find specific folks at the paper who would be a particularly relevant contact, given our specific interests.
The Nordland Museum
The next stop was The Nordland Museum. This is a fantastic museum on the history of Bodø that provided a rich context and background for the city where we are living this summer. We saw the Sami Exhibit, which shows the early way of life of the indigenous population. Also, exhibits about the overnight “explosion” of the herring industry—which seemed to me to be the fish equivalent of the California gold rush—that put Bodø on the map. One of the most compelling exhibits was about Bodø during World War II. In turning point of the Norwegian invasion by the Nazis, Bodø was bombed from the air. The majority of the town was leveled and people had to live in cellars and the remains of bombed-out buildings. It was not much longer before that when the German occupation force arrived and took control of the city. The residents of Bodø lived under Nazi occupation for a few years after that. One of our professors was explaining to us that his father was a young boy at this time and remembers the Nazis talking about not understanding why they were there and not wanting to be there. Although southern Norway was taken by surprise by the German invasion an fell rather quickly, by the time they reached the North, the residents had time to rally. For a time the radio station in Bodø was the source for Radio Free Norway. One Norwegian told me earlier that fighters lived in the hills and mountains and fought the Nazi occupation whenever and wherever they could and that it took eight Nazis for every Norwegian to hold the northern part of the country. One highlight of the tour was a 20-minute film covering the history of Bodø that was conveniently sub-titled in English.
When we first arrived at the Museum, be bought our tickets from Torunn Flaesen Oppegard. She is an extremely nice woman who got excited about our research work and gave us an impromptu / informal interview on the spot. For me, she also told me about her two grown children who have moved from the north to the south and who know other students who have moved as well. She gave me their contact information and before we left the museum, she e-mailed both of them telling them to expect to be contacted about doing an interview. At the end of our museum tour, Torunn also got us in to meet Helge Seim, the main curator (or Konservator) for the museum. We were able to engage him in a 30-minute interview.
Culture Center
Fortified by a great trip to the museum, a granola bar, and an apple—we decided to head to the Culture Center (a.k.a. the Bodø Kulturhaus) next. We weren’t sure of the function or purpose of the Culture Center, so we struck out in search of an answer. Turns out, it is a site for larger concerts and orchestral performances. We showed up around 4 p.m. and they closed at 3 p.m. Undeterred, we ventured deeper into the building until we found a set of administrative offices with one person, named Vidor, still working. We introduced ourselves and chatted for a bit. When I mentioned my topic of people who have moved from the north, Vidor lit up and said, “You’re describing me.” We exchanged contact information and made plans to set up an interview.
Apple Store / Glass House
The day was winding down. Offices were closing up. We began making our way back to the dorms. I had heard about, but hadn’t seen, a shopping mall called the Glass House. We walked through the mall and checked it out. A largely glass structure, the mall let in a tremendous amount of natural light and I was struck by the fact that there is a full-scale grocery store on the first floor, not something one would see in an American Mall. We also spotted and popped into an Apple store. Well, a certified reseller—so not a true apple store, but the store layout and décor made it clear that they were trying to emulate a true Apple store as much as possible.
It was a big day and a fresh set of follow-ups and to-dos. We spent more than 6 hours walking around and getting to know the city center. A very good Friday indeed.
Party in a Norwegian Tipi
Picture this… It’s a Thursday evening. I am in Norway...in the woods...in a tipi...sitting on reindeer pelts...at a Norwegian beer tasting and feast.
This was the evening that the business school held their annual end-of-the-year faculty party and we got an invitation. A chartered bus picked everyone up at the University and the dorms where we are living this summer and then took the crew on out into the woods. Once we arrived, I drifted over to a group of Norwegians I had not yet met and settled in for the evening’s event. For starters, we had presentation followed by a beer tasting. The beers came at a steady clip and the alcohol content of each beer was more impressive than the last. When I made a comment to this effect to the person next to me, he smiled and told me that drinking in Norway comes with both an expectation and a responsibility. I am happy to report that I lived up to both. Next, we were divided into groups, led outside, and given our assignments. One group was in charge of cooking the meat, another preparing and cooking the potatoes, another (my group) the vegetables, another serving the tables, and so on. In short order, all of the elements were prepared and assembled into what became our (very delicious and bountiful) feast for the evening. The wine flowed during dinner and after a time of laughing and socializing we were led back onto the bus and taken downtown for the post-party party, where a good time continued to be had by all.
The Research Fellowship
I have mentioned in general terms that I am in Norway on a research fellowship this summer. So, I thought I’d dedicate a few paragraphs to peeling a few more layers off of that particular onion.
There are a group of students working on the research project this summer. We are a mix of students from the University of Texas at Austin and the Business School art the Univeritetet I Nordland in Bodø. Our general focus is on a region called the High North that encompasses the northern part of Norway. Norway has 19 regions that we, in the U.S., might call counties. The three northernmost counties are Nordland, Troms, and Finnmark. These three counties are included in the High North, which I’ve heard one person describe as the area of Norway that is above the Arctic Circle. This summer, I am living in Bodø, which is the most southern of the three counties, but still north of the Arctic Circle. Each student has a particular focus that falls under the umbrella of topics related to the High North. Another common theme that ties us together is that we are taking a narrative approach. That is, we are collecting data with a focus on finding an interesting character whose story captures an aspect of the larger topic in an interesting and informative way.
My focus is on rural migration. The rising trend in Norway is that many people, when they reach adulthood, are moving away from small communities in the north in favor of more urban and metropolitan communities in the south. Places like Oslo, Bergen, and Trondheim are where more folks are moving these days. Many (but not all) northern Norwegian communities are shrinking in size and are trending towards an older demographic. Addressing the shrinking population and northern infrastructure is a priority for the government. I am working on making contacts and scheduling interviews with people who have moved from the north and have been affected by the population shifts. For example, I was talking to a church pastor on Sunday after services and he told me about two other pastors he knows who stopped delivering services on Sundays because the number of attendees have dropped so much in recent years. Tomorrow I am interviewing the father of a young woman who works in the local Tourist Information Center. I was telling her about my interests and she beamed. She explained that I was describing her father’s experience. When he was old enough, he had to leave his home to find work. He misses his childhood home and experiences and loves to talk about these things. I am going to their home tomorrow evening for coffee and to interview the two of them.
By the end of the summer, my goal is to have a narrative that will become a chapter in a book that will be a collection of all of our works.
Tuesday, June 14, 2011
The Night of the Midnight Sun
This summer, I will be here for the night of the midnight sun. This is 24-hour period when the sun never sets. I have attached a picture of a post card of time-lapsed images that does a good job of capturing this event.
This is something I was expecting and am looking forward to, however the part that is taking me by surprise, but makes sense in retrospect, is that there is a gradual build up to this day/night. It has not been truly dark out in all of my time here so far in Norway. While we were in Kjerringoy last week, I made it a point to take 3 pictures between midnight and 1 a.m. I am posting the 3 images below in chronological order to share how dark it did/didn’t get last week.
The photos below, in order, are:
- A post card of the Midnight Sun
- It's nearly "dark" out
- The sun is behind the mountain. It's "dark" out now.
- A little past 1 a.m. and it's getting light out again
Qualitative Camp—Our weeklong conference
Greetings! For those following along closely, you may have noticed that I haven’t posted a new entry in awhile. I am happy to report that I am back online and still alive and well. This last week, I was up in Kjerringoy at the pre-research conference. This was the event where we covered some of the basics on how to conduct qualitative research, discovered similarities and differences between the American and European systems of higher education and presented on our intended research focus for the summer. In some ways, the presentations were the most intimidating portion of the event. We each had an hour. In that time we each spent about 20 minutes providing background and describing the research concept we wanted to focus on for the summer, and our plan for how we are going to go about doing that. For the remaining 40 minutes, the floor was open for questions, comments, suggestions, and critiques. I have an audio recording of my hour if anyone really wants to “nerd out”, I’ll be happy to share this recording. J
When we weren’t in sessions, we were soaking up Norway and having fun. We definitely played as hard as we worked and I, for one, was exhausted by the end of the week. During our time there, we lived in shared cabins.
Now, when I heard ‘shared cabins’ I pictured something out of boy scouts. One big common room with bunk beds set up barracks style with a common group shower, etc. It turns out, this was more like a condo or townhouse on the coast. There were 4 guys and 3 bedrooms. I managed to look intimidating enough that I was one of two guys who scored his own bedroom.
My daily routine that week was pretty much the following:
- - Spend the day in the conference working and thinking hard until we got out of our conference sessions around 5 p.m.
- Skype in to work and help handle the Dana Center issues of the day. I would typically do work-stuff until about 7 p.m.
- Cruise over to the hotel bar and drink a pre-dinner cocktail with the group.
- 8:30 – Dinner is served. We sampled a cross-section of Norwegian fare. We had Moose on a couple occasions and a variety of fish dishes for most of the rest of the time. And potatoes. Lots and lots of potatoes. In a variety of forms and styles to be sure. Certainly enough that several people noted, “Wow, that’s a lot of potatoes.” So, it turns out potatoes are a big deal here. In fact, while doing some background reading, I was looking on the website of the Norwegian Agricultural Extension Office and I saw that one of their senior positions is “Potato Coordinator”. I can think of fewer more fantastic business cards to collect than the one for the Norwegian National Potato Coordinator. Dinner typically included a beer, a glass or two of red wine, and a glass of Aquavit.—Several have asked what aquavit is, and I’ll be happy to share a bottle with those who would like to give it a try when I get back. Aquavit is a hard liquor that is not to be underestimated. Think of a cross between Irish whiskey and Bacardi 151 with a hint of some sort of spice. It will definitely cure one of his or her sobriety. I asked the bartender what the base of the liquor was (Is it wheat based? berry based?). It turns out…of course…it’s a potato based liquor.
- - Dinner usually lasted until about 11 p.m. and then the group slowly moved out on to the deck overlooking the water. This is where we continued to drink and socialize until the bar stopped serving at 1 a.m. At that point the party moved back to either the guys’ or gals’ cabin.
- Socializing and whatnots continued for a while after that until things slowly wound down for the night.
- I then slept for a few hours, got up, showered, wolfed down some breakfast, and wandered into the morning sessions.
Rinse and repeat. That was the formula for the week. I’ll admit that I haven’t pushed the envelope that hard in awhile. Now take the mental picture you have after reading all of the details above. Get that image firmly in your mind. Now insert this detail—it never got dark. The sun got close to the horizon. By about 1 a.m. it was as dark as it was going to get – think of the early stages of sunset. So, by 3-4 a.m. when the last vestiges of the hardcore party was winding down, consider that it was light out like it would be at 10 a.m. in the U.S It’s fair to say that the ever-present light was why the party often went as late as it did. Everyone’s biological signals were screaming that the night was young and that there was still “a long row to hoe” before bedtime. At the end of the week, we piled into two cars and made our way back to our dorms in Bodø, which is where we are staying this summer. As soon as I got back to the dorms on Friday afternoon, I dragged myself up to my room and slept for, something like, 10 hours straight. It was Sunday afternoon when I started really getting back up to speed.
The Challenge Coin
On a side note: In preparation for the trip, I had recently purchased a groovy device. It is a charger that plugs into the wall and recharges a small battery pack that’s about the size of a pack of gum and plugs into an iPhone. The device carries a full iPhone charge and I can plug it into an iPhone and use it as if it were plugged in. I can use the phone and charge it at the same time.
As soon as I realized this guy was struggling, I went over and caught his attention. I showed him the device I had, explained how it worked, encouraged him to get one if he traveled much, and told him to borrow my fully charged battery so that he could step outside the bar and make his phone calls. He came back after awhile, returned my battery, and said thanks.
After he left, I went online and looked up challenge coins on Wikipedia. There is a cool background and history to these coins that is worth checking out. Here is the link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Challenge_coin.
That is way cool that he gave you one of those man. They are received for a specific combat tour and handed out like you experienced very selectively. That is indeed a big deal for a service member, so you did indeed do something that meant a lot to him. I have chills thinking about it - good man Sir
Veterans can always tell active duty - so I carry a coin with me most of the time just in case
And I have never lost. I saw a dude on a motorcycle the other day. We were stopped next to one another at a light. He was in civilian clothes, but I can always tell. I flashed mine at him and he smiled big.